If business makes for interesting bedmates, then travel for sure makes for the weirdest. When meeting a homeless girl in the city centre of Cali, Colombia, I got three pieces of advice from our conversation, and by that I mean her 30 minutes Spanish monologue, and this is what I gathered: 

1. Avoid walking in this part of town (the city centre),

2. get closer to god and;

3. use protection.

Three points completely unrelated, yet could be a series of consequential events.

Whether it was the former or the latter, after two other warnings with the third being from an actual homeless person warning me, “I wouldn’t walk there”, then I probably shouldn’t either.

And that summarises the safety situation in Cali’s city centre. 

Almost every local in town warned us about exploring the city centre, that’s why tourists usually stay almost entirely in the historical centre known as San Antonio.

The two are divided with a two-way highway street, separating the old from the new. Once you cross to the other infamous side of town, the prices drop and safety warnings increases.

Why is it so special?

Cali is where the Salsa dance originated. Experiencing this part of the culture there is like entering a movie from the 50s; they don’t make it like that anymore.

You are surrounded by music and salsa every day of the week, in bars, clubs and on the streets The nightlife here is unlike any other place, because you get to party like locals with locals.

Imagine people dancing in the streets all dressed up and synchronised like you’ve entered a musical. 

Here is an idea of how your week nights can go:

Monday: “La Topa” cannot be missed with its lively salsa ballroom.

Tues/Wed: San Antonio Park

Thursday: La Pergola Clandestina Club

Friday: Salsa street party at “La Calle Salsa“, where you’ll find everyone dancing on the streets with music playing all night long.

Saturday: Club Espacio 10-60, with a rooftop bar to enjoy the view.

Sunday: “El Mulato Cabaret“. We extended just to not miss this event, and it was well worth it. Don’t forget to dress up as well.

I recommend staying at Viajero Hostel, where they bring Salsa professionals every day to teach you for free.

Cali also has one of the biggest clubs in Latin America. So if you haven’t figured it out already, Cali is for the night owls, so it’s worth adapting your sleeping schedule when there. 

The unrecommended city centre

Even though we got warned about exploring the city centre, Cali’s low prices sparked some curiosity for exploration nonetheless. However, the further I explored, the more I got warned about what is luckily still unknown to me.

I count my blessings that I was fully unharmed even after potentially risking my safety for 10 cents worth of socks and passionfruit, both priceless items for a backpacker.

What surprised me was not the lack of safety, but the level of homelessness on a Sunday when no one seemed to be out besides those who don’t have anywhere else to go.

There was no catcalling, following, but any interactions or offering of food was met by so much gratitude and prayers genuine enough to add extra years to my life.

Cali was not the most famous destination, at least not yet. It’s not the prettiest or the safest city. In fact, it was ranked up there as one of the most dangerous cities in Colombia due to high crime and drug activity. It was also the first and only place on my whole trip that we were told not to walk at night.

BUT if you manage to look past all that, it might end up being one of your favourite places just like it was for me and many others. There is a reason why many plan to come for few days and end up staying a month until they become impressively and literally quick on their feet when it comes to Salsa.

So, I can promise you, if you don’t follow my lead, you can still go there and be very safe while enjoying the Salsa capital of the world. Thank me later!